Updated: Jul 11, 2019
Tacos Cocuyos is a famous taqueria where all the chefs go…except I didn’t know that at the time. It was the closet taco place to my hotel when I first arrived - I love that google maps shows “tacos near me”. It turn out that it’s not in best neighbourhood down in the historic district of Mexico City.
I found that out the hard way. I’ll save that story for another time.
I loved it so much that even though I was scared shitless - I came down here 3 times. I would describe Mexico City is pretty safe otherwise, just carry your street smarts with you and be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine.
It doesn’t matter what you order here. It’s all good.
I tried them all - campenchano, chorizo, surtida, yes that includes the cow tongue, eyeball, cheek, intestines but if you’re not that adventurous just go with the suadero. That’s beef. It’s so tasty that you’ll forget it was cooked in the same pot with all the other weird parts you’re too chicken to try. All served on a warm corn flour tortilla and be sure to play around with their spicy salsas on the counter.
The pot that greets you at the counter is almost like a confit and all the animal parts slip and slide together in an orgy of their fats.
Whatever you order, you must squeeze the lime juice on it to give your palate a balanced picture of you flavours. Naturally the acid from the lime cuts through the fat. I actually like to take a bite without the lime first just to enjoy the reaction of the second bite with the lime.
You’ll see all kinds of people here throughout the day and night, suits, hipsters, neo thrashers, emos, scene queens and whores.
It’s one of those places that unites all walks of life in front of it’s tiny unassuming counter and you don’t care who you’re rubbing elbows with because the one thread that binds you all together is your love for some of the best tacos Mexico City has to offer.
When I got back to my hotel that night after eating tacos here, I decided to brush up on my Anthony Bourdain episodes in Mexico. I was pleasantly surprised to see that he came to Los Cocuyos in his No Reservation series. I read somewhere later that his production team would go there quite a bit. I was comforted knowing that the bar was set high to start combing Mexico City for the best tacos I can find - and hopefully save you from wasting calories on mediocre tacos.